How to Crochet a Market Bag (that is perfect for more than just the market!)
DISCLAIMER: I started writing this post back in March and somehow got too distracted to ever finish it. BUT this tutorial is one of my top watched youtube videos, (subscribe to my channel here!) so I knew I had to get back to it for those of you looking for this pattern in writing!
Spring is finally a reality. It has been a never ending winter of snow, snow, cold, snow and now flooding here in South Dakota but with the past week’s temperatures in the 50s, and next Wednesday expected to hit a whopping 69 degrees…I finally have my faith back in the weather.
Here it comes you guys. Sunny Days, cocktails on the patio, gardening, grilling out…and hopefully pool days won’t be long after that.
RELATED: HOW TO CROCHET A BOHEMIAN BIKINI TOP
And everywhere I look these days I am seeing the most adorable crocheted net market bags.
I can picture myself walking down the street with my handmade market bag filled with a fresh loaf of French bread, bright yellow lemons and a bouquet of fresh flowers.
Doesn’t that sound amazing?
Ok so let’s be real…this is how mine is really going to be packed: my craft project du jour, Rothy flats for when I realize that the 3 inch heels were a mistake and a bottle of red wine (because wine not??).
But that is kind of what I love about this bag. It’s fun and versatile, something about the airy open weave just says summer to me and I can be en trend (while pretending I frequent the farmers’ markets).
This is the kind of crochet project that is nearly impossible to mess up. Even if you don’t follow along exactly with my patter or if you change it up a little as you go - your bag will turn out perfectly. That is one of the best things about working with such an open net weave. It really will adjust itself as you go!
So let’s get started!
R1: Magic Circle, Ch-2, dc 10 times in circle. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (10)
R2: Ch-2, 2dc in each st. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (20)
R3: Ch-2, *2dc in first st, 1dc in next st* repeat around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (30)
R4: Ch-2, *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2 sts* repeat around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (40)
R 5: Ch-2, *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 3 sts* repeat around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (50)
R6: Ch-2, *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 4 sts* repeat around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (60)
R7: Ch-2, *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 5 sts* repeat around. Join with sl st to the top of first dc. (70)
R8: Ch-2, *dc in first st, 1dc in next 6 sts* repeat around. Join with sl st to the top of first dc. (80)
*Ch-7, skip 4 st and sl st into the 5th st from the chain* repeat around ending in the last st. Ch-4 to begin next row and then slip stitch in the first chain. *Ch-7, skip 4 st and sl st into the 5th st from the chain*
When you come back around to the smaller chain you started with, skip over it to continue with your Ch-7 skip 4 pattern. This will allow you to work more quickly and not stop at the end of each row. The net weave of the bag is so forgiving that there is very little way to mess this part up! Do what feels right to you.
Since I am color blocking my bag with gray on the bottom and white on the top, I continued on with my gray until I had reached what I thought was a good amount of grey.
Change colors and continue the same exact pattern.
Continue until your bag is about the desired length that you want.
IMPORTANT: If there is any part of this project that you just can’t get to work “exactly” as I have it written here - DON’T WORRY ABOUT IT. Try just making your best attempt and moving on. The netting in this bag makes it an EXTREMELY flexible pattern that will look great even with a lot of adjustments!
SC in each chain stitch and DC in each regular stitch all the way around. Doing a DC in each of the regular stitches will help even out the height difference between where your netting connects to the row below and where your chains are. This is not necessary at all, you could easily just do a straight SC all the way around, you will just have more of a scalloped edge on your bag. At this point I have 92 total stitches around my bag but this really isn’t critical to the pattern.
For the next two rows I continued to do all single crochets, however I followed a pattern of 4sc join 2 all the way around on both of these last two rows. By decreasing my stitches just a little bit, I straightened out the top edging of my bag and compensated for the extra stitches in length that my chains had created.
Count out how many stitches you have at the top edging of your bag so that you know where to place the straps. I had 74 stitches on my bag but it is by no means important that you have the exact number of stitches that I do. It will all work out in the end!
Note: After I finished my top edge, I blocked the edge of my bag with water and some blocking spray to flatten the edge of the bag to perfect the look. This is optional, but a great idea if you aren’t happy with the finished look/shape.
One the last row of edging is complete:
Ch-1, 10sc, turn
Since I had 74 stitches before I started my strap and my strap is 10 stitches wide, I can subtract 10 from 74 (64) and then subtract 10 stitches for where the strap will attach on the other side of my bag (54), divide that by 2 (27) and now I have the number I need to count from the edge of my strap to know where to begin attaching my strap on the other side. Yours could easily be a little different so just figure out where you need to attach your strap to the other side and go from there.
Make sure you have the right side of the bag and the right side of the loose end of the strap facing each other and then slip stitch across all ten stitches to connect it to the bag.
Trim off and weave in all of your loose ends and you are done!!
If you have any questions, drop me a note in the comments below and I will do my best to help you!